Staying in a Ger: What to Expect Inside Mongolia's Felt Home

A night in a ger is, for many travellers, the most memorable part of a trip to Mongolia. This round, felt-covered tent has sheltered nomadic herders for centuries, and stepping inside one is the closest you can get to how millions of Mongolians still live today. Here is what to expect so you arrive relaxed and ready.

The layout

A ger is a circular structure built around a wooden lattice wall and roof poles, all wrapped in felt and canvas. Despite its simple look, the interior follows a clear, traditional order. The door almost always faces south. The back, opposite the door, is the most respected area, often reserved for elders, family treasures, or a small Buddhist shrine. The west side (your left as you enter) is traditionally the men's side, and the east the women's, though in tourist ger camps this is relaxed.

The stove

In the centre stands the stove, the literal and social heart of the ger. It burns wood or dried dung and is used for cooking, boiling water, and heating. On cool evenings it makes the ger wonderfully warm; by early morning the fire has usually died down, so nights can feel chilly. In organised camps a staff member often lights it for you. Never throw rubbish, water, or anything disrespectful into the fire, which is considered sacred.

Sleeping

You'll usually sleep on simple beds or mattresses arranged around the wall. Bedding is provided in ger camps; in a family homestay you may sleep on the floor with blankets. Bring warm layers and a hat, as temperatures drop sharply at night even in summer. A torch or headlamp is invaluable for finding your way after dark.

Ger camp vs nomad family homestay

There are two very different ways to experience a ger:

• Ger camps are set up for visitors, especially around the Gobi, Terelj, Khövsgöl, and Orkhon valley. Each guest ger has beds, and the camp usually has a separate restaurant ger and shower/toilet block. Comfortable and easy, with some authentic atmosphere.
• Nomad family homestays place you in a working herder household. You share daily life: milking, herding, and meals cooked over the stove. Conditions are basic and facilities minimal, but the cultural insight is unmatched.

Facilities and toilets

Do not expect en-suite comfort. Tourist camps generally have shared shower and toilet buildings, sometimes with hot water on a schedule. At a family ger, the toilet is usually a simple long-drop outhouse a short walk away, and washing may be from a basin. Bring your own toilet paper, hand sanitiser, and wet wipes everywhere you go.

Etiquette inside a ger

A few simple courtesies go a long way:

• Step over, never on, the threshold of the door.
• Move clockwise inside the ger.
• Accept food and drink, such as milk tea or airag, with your right hand (or both hands); at least taste what you're offered.
• Don't point your feet at the stove or the altar, and don't lean on the support columns.
• Ask before taking photos of people or the family shrine.

A typical evening

As the sun sets over the steppe, the family gathers around the stove. You might be offered salty milk tea, fresh dairy snacks, and a hearty meal of mutton, noodles, or dumplings. Conversation flows slowly, sometimes with the help of your guide translating. Outside, with no light pollution, the night sky is astonishingly clear. You drift off to the crackle of the dying fire and wake to the sounds of livestock and the vast quiet of the open land, an experience that stays with you long after you leave Mongolia.